Monday, July 4, 2011

Fort William to Glasgow....

Great hospitality, great people and awesome scenery punctuated my time in Fort William.
The trip was going off without a hitch, until I tried to take a hot shower at my hosts' place. I had a head full of conditioner and cleanser all over my face, then the shower just cut out on me...no going cold, no 3 minute warning - stopped dead. I had to feel my way outta the tub and over to the sink with my eyes shut, where I rinsed off my face (with the freezing cold tap and boiling hot tap - a common British thing), and then had to find a way to rinse my hair. I decided that the cup holding the toothbrushes was a good a rinser as any - filled it with half cold and half hot water, then poured over my head in a tiny sink. Eventually rinsed out all the conditioner, but my hair is so long that I had to keep pulling it out of the drain! Ha! Finally sorted myself out... 

I got some breakfast, packed up my things, and got a ride into town to the station, where I hopped a train down to Glasgow.

The entire time I was in Scotland, the weather was having serious identity issues - 10 minutes of rain, then a few rays of sunshine, just enough to draw you out and trick you into thinking the day's gonna be beautiful, blue sky - then, in blow the clouds, at such ridiculous speeds, that you don't even know where they came from. I don't mind the rain - I've got waterproofs, and saves me from having to shower! I've gotta go back there and hike the hills and mountains...

Arrived in Glasgow and the rain was back. I headed straight for the info centre (a stone's throw from the train station) where I could get myself organized without standing in the middle of a crowded train station with my map and guide book out, just asking to get mugged or hassled. Dropped my gear in a corner of the info centre and called up Eurohostel - it had a non-chalant review in my guide book (which can actually mean it's quite standard, and therefore, good). It's centrally located, and priced relative to all the other hostels in my book. I managed to get the last female space for the night - they were completely booked up. So I ran over there (after a few wrong turns), checked-in (super friendly staff, to the point, helpful, gave me great recommendations, and had a great sense of humour), dropped off my stuff, and headed out to explore. 











Just a couple blocks from the hostel is Argyle Street.  I happened upon a helpful gentleman and asked him where I could grab a decent pint and some good pub food - he recommended a place called Sloanes. So I rocked up to this little alleyway right off the main pedestrian path, walked down about 20 yards and found myself in a small courtyard with Sloanes to my right. There were tables and chairs set up outside, and the place was bustling. Sloanes just happens to be the "oldest bar and restaurant in Glasgow" - est. 1797.  Friendly staff, a lively atmosphere, hearty food for a reasonable price and an awesome location meant I had to elbow my way into a bar seat just so I could order some food. What a cool find! Stumbling across good pubs can be dangerous - you could find yourself in there for half the day, writing, drinking and eating. I don't care how many guide books I read - the first thing I do when I get to any place is talk to the locals. 







I'd already decided by this point, that I was going to stay an extra night in Glasgow, and spend the next full day exploring. That would turn out to be an awesome idea.

Why would anyone choose to go back to suburban Ontario after seeing a bit of the world? I'm not so sure - maybe if Ontario was the way it used to be - 30 years ago - but not so much anymore. The world is so huge and exciting. I have no time for a mundane existence, or to slog away at a job making someone else's fortune, a slave to my mortgage and bills. I don't want anyone else to make my fortune either. I'm quite happy to take care of that myself. 

The next day, I grabbed the complementary breakfast at the hostel - good selection: cereals, toast, jams, butters and spreads, fruit salad, and full-service coffee machines - just press a couple buttons and wait for your coffee/cappuccino/latte/etc. to be made. They also provided a full cooked breakfast if you paid a few extra pounds.  Filled up on free coffee and toast and stopped by the desk for recommendations for exploration. I'm so glad I did, because the awesome guy behind the desk told me to go check out the Cathedral and Necropolis, not clearly labelled on the map I had. I wanted to drop by Sloanes courtyard to take a few photos, and wouldn't you know, it's a full-on market! I perused the stalls, bought a sweet scarf for my momma from two ladies with an accessory stall, and they gave me a brief history lesson on Sloanes itself: Glasgow's oldest Inn and the front in the alley and courtyard is where all the horse-drawn carriages would come to get loaded up to travel to Edinburgh in the 18th Century. Travellers were allowed one small canvas bag and the journey would take 5 1/2 hours. The hay was stored along the insides of the courtyard under the fire escapes. So I was standing in the gateway to Glasgow...awesome.








Wandered around town, Glasgow Green, and the tower from which they used to hang people (too bad it was covered in scaffolding!), went by the Muesum of Art, Strathclyde University, and caught my breath on a park bench in George Square (right by the info centre I started at the day before). 
Headed to the Cathedral where I explored and took a bunch of photos, and then made my way up to the Necropolis - overlooking all of Glasgow, with amazing monuments and grave-stones. The Cathedral was dwarfed from up there.  I then found my way to another pub for dinner - Drouthy's. It's modern and hip, busy, and the food is obviously made in house. Super tasty.




























One of my favourite things to do in a city, especially after I've spent a day or two shooting, is drop everything off, wherever I'm staying - including my camera - and grab a coffee and wander around. I'm relaxed, not trying to get a shot, or sort out where the lighting is good, or even bothered with where I'm going or what I'm seeing. Just wander. I love walking near people and listening to them talk - not to listen to what they are saying, but just to hear the accent and language. I love it. So that's what I ended up doing after all my exploring, just taking in the city, no pressure, no work...just wandering around...





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